We arrived to Yangon airport in Myanmar (AKA Burma)- shocked to see it was way bigger and more established than Cambodia and Morocco airports.

My brother Christopher, and my sister-in-law Jessica, had arrived a couple of hours prior and were already at the hotel. They told us it should only cost about 7,000 kyat (local currency- less than $7 USD) to get to the hotel, and our hotel confirmed via email. There were 30 taxi drivers outside trying to get our attention. We tried to negotiate but they insisted that because of the late time (it was midnight), the price was higher. We settled on 9,000 kyat (pronounced chat), and were led to a man’s car. In other countries it is always initially odd just getting into stranger’s cars. There was no regulation like in the US. Who knows if this guy was even really a taxi driver? You just have to say a prayer and hope for the best.

We were interested to see that drivers sit on the right side, but still drive on the right side of the road. This was new to us. We drove through Yangon, passing by car dealerships, large buildings and high-rises. This was a major city, far more progressed and modern than we thought it would be! There were lights everywhere! Many building covered in christmas-like lights.

We arrived at our hotel, which on first impression looked ok. Upon check -in, the petite, pretty front desk attendant asked for our passports. After filling out paperwork and getting our key we asked for our passports back. “I hold them.” she said. Huh? “Um, no thank you, we will hold them”. I replied. “NO, no, we keep.”What? I had recently had a conversation with some military and state department friends, who stressed and reiterated the importance of never letting someone else have your passport, unless they were immigration officials. Passports are technically property of the US government. I became frustrated and insisted that the girl give us our passports back. I got a little heated after a few minutes of her refusing to give them to us. “ I will not let you keep my passport!” I said. Conner was trying to get me to just go to up to the room and deal with it the following day. Why was he not as concerned? “Babe, what are we going to do? Where are we going to go at 1am?” he kept saying. I told the hotel staff that I had never encountered this at any other hotel in any other country. I asked if it was a Myanmar law, and they said “no, hotel policy”. I was so incredibly angry at this point. I did not feel safe letting them hold our passports. The front desk girl agreed that she would give them back to us the following day. I begrudgingly followed Conner to our room, but I was not happy!  Our room was fine. The size was good and a hot shower sounded nice. Sounded nice. There was no hot water coming out of that shower. After a cold shower we went to bed.

The next morning we woke up and met Christopher and Jessica for breakfast (it was included) in the hotel restaurant. It was so great to see them, and even cooler that we met them on the other side of the world! Over cold fried eggs and fried rice and noodles, they told us about the rats above their room. They said there was a rat party on their roof that kept them up all night. Rats? Oh my gosh! I would freak out! Our room was on a different floor and the only noise we heard was loud car horns and kids singing before school at 7am. I thought it was cool they could laugh about it. They have been traveling to some remote places all over for the last 8 months, so nothing seemed to surprise them. They recently did amazing treks through Nepal, Tibet and Mongolia. When traveling to these places, you just learn to roll with it. You learn you are lucky to sometimes get a shower at all- let alone a warm or hot one. You learn you may eat things you would typically never consider eating in the US , because you are hungry, and it is all there is. You learn that nobody cares if your clothes match, if they are wrinkled or even dirty. I learned these things in Cambodia, Thailand and Vietnam. You think I’d be a pro by now. I needed a refresher- it had been some time.

After breakfast we set out to see Schwedagon temple. As we walked through the streets we couldn’t believe how difficult it was to cross the busy roads. Traffic didnt stop. In other southeast Asia countries, swarms of motor bikes and cars make it intimidating to cross, but when you do cross they stop. In Yangon they don’t stop. You have to run

The streets of Yangon were very busy with hustle and bustle of street vendors, shops, markets and just people everywhere. Yangon is by no means a clean city. A rather dirty city with an overwhelming amount of smells- some good, some not so good. Although crowded, the people in Yangon do not hassle tourists for the most part. Unlike in Thailand and Morocco where we were constantly harassed in some cities by vendors and street beggars. It was nice to not be hounded to buy things.

We arrived at the amazing Schwedagon temple.  We were instructed that we had to wear the traditional Longyi- which looks like a long skirt – both men and women. You see people wearing them all through the streets of Yangon. It is their typical, daily attire . We donned our new longyi that we bought and took off our shoes and socks, as these are not allowed in the temples. Once inside it was really quite awesome! We spent a good amount of time walking around and taking pictures. A monk approached me asking if he could take a picture with me. He said ,” I am very happy to see you here”. He was so nice and probably close to my age (early 30’s). He brought his monk friend and sister over. They got a kick out of how tall Conner is, especially next to his petite sister.

We explored the city some more and found a zoo. It was about $2 USD to enter and it would take us through to another side of the city we wanted to see. As we walked through the zoo we became somber. There were so many beautiful tigers, cougars and mountain lyon, but they were kept in very small areas. We realize this is how it is in many zoos, in many countries, but we did not want to support it. We quickly rushed out and found a place for lunch. It was traditional Myanmar food- rice or noodles with a choice of meat.

After lunch we explored some more! We found a nice park and another pagoda. There are buddha statues all over . In every temple and pagoda there are many, many buddhas.

We also found a beautiful church! About 88% of the Myanmar population is Buddhist, 6% Christian and 4% Islamic, with the remainder (Burmese Indians) being Hindu.

After a nice afternoon, we clocked in at 13 miles walking for the day- did I mention it was 90 degrees? Pretty hot!

We decided to try a high rated restaurant on Tripadvisor. It was owned by an expat from Thailand. A nice, friendly woman probably in her 40’s, who greeted us at the door speaking good English. Conner and I had the most delicious curry! It was one of the best we have ever had! Jessica enjoyed a nice soup and Christopher ordered a different type of curry.

Back at the hotel we asked for our passports back. At first the front desk girl hesitated but eventually gave them back. (After I politely reminded her that she had promised she would return them to us ). If she hadn’t returned them I was ready to call the US embassy- I was not messing around!

We went next door to our hotel and sat outside having a beer and watching the locals.Our beers served to us by a boy no older then 15. It is quite common in Myanmar to have children serve alcohol and work as cooks,/ servers in restaurants.  A drunk, very rude Australian man showed up. He rudely asked the owner if they served any french fries or pizza. When the reply was “no”, the guy freaked out and started making a drunken scene – “is there anywhere I can get ****bleep bleep bleep*** western food in this bloody town!?” He was such a jerk! Talk about embarrassing for Westerners to have tourists portray us this way. To a country who is newer to foreign western tourists especially. It sets a bad precedence! We saw some very intoxicated Australians in Thailand acting foolish, as well as some extremely rude Russians in Cambodia who belittled the locals. It’s a shame really.

After a semi good sleep after another cold shower we had another less than optimal breakfast. Conner and I decided we would do the 3 hour circular train. The train ride circles around the outskirts of the city and is the main transportation for locals to come to Yangon. Anthony Bordain did the ride, and all the travel blogs/ books say it is a “must do”. It was Jessica’s birthday- 28 to be exact! She gets motion sickness, so riding a bumpy train all morning was not what she wanted to do for her birthday. She and Christopher opted to skip it. The travel book did make it seem rough- it was described as “feeling as though you are on the fast part of a washing machine cycle”.

According to the map and GPS it would take Conner and I only a 15-20 minute walk to get to the train. It was leaving at 8:35am , with the next scheduled time hours later. We did not want to miss it. The 20 minute walk was actually closer to 35 minutes. We had another ”Conner amazing race” experience and ran through the streets of Yangon trying to make the train. We arrived sweating only to see an empty track. We asked a few people but nobody could explain what was going on. Finally, a nice local man did his very best to speak English. He told us the track was off and the train would be picking us up from a few tracks over. We thanked him and found our track. Our tickets by the way were only .35 cents.  As we sat in some available seats I noticed many locals with their shoes off , bare feet propped up in the seats. I noticed women with supplies and crafts they were taking to town, that were larger in quantity than we could fit in a small US vehicle.

We said hello to another Westerner who also boarded. Conner was expressing to me that he wished we had a window seat for pictures. A nice local man overhead or conversation and invited us to sit in his area by the window. We graciously accepted. He was so nice and we learned so much talking-to him. He works security and had just come off of a night shift. He was headed home to his small village outside of Yangon, where he has a pregnant wife. I asked him if he was hoping for a son or a daughter and he replied, “I will love them no matter what. I just want them to be healthy”.

His friend joined us for a portion of the ride. Another very nice man who had funny memes of Obama and Trump on his cell phone. So crazy to think Burmese (Myanmar natives) know about US politics, considering half of the people in the US likely have never heard of Myanmar, let alone know where it is on a map.

We enjoyed the nice ride, passing through many villages.

women carrying food for sale on the train

Myanmar is interesting – you see a very large mansion right next to poverty ridden shacks. Christopher and Jessica found Yangon to be much more similar to India than other Southeast Asian destinations. Something else very interesting about Yangon is the vast differences in appearance of the people. In Japan, China, Thailand , Cambodia and Vietnam, the majority of the people in each country have a distinct look. In Myanmar some people look Thai, some Indian, some Cambodian.

After our new friends departed the train at their stop they excitedly kept waving goodbye, even once off the train. I invited the other westerner to come sit with us because we had a fan above us, and it was quite hot. This is the “cool season” in Myanmar, with the highs getting only up to 90 during the day – only ! The locals get very cold when the sun goes down and it is 70 degrees at night. Many kept telling us about the “cold season”.

We enjoyed chatting with Andy, the westerner from Canada, who know lives in Hong Kong for work. He has traveled all over the world. We enjoyed comparing stories and experiences.

After the train Conner and I found a nice cafe called Black Salt. It turned out to be a chain and their equivalent of Starbucks. The lattes were really delicious! Conner had a pastry treat as well. We met Jessica and Christopher back at the hotel and explored the city some more. We had a nice VERY authentic Indian lunch at a place recommended by a local. It was a loud, hectic and very busy restaurant. The owner, an Indian looking man missing his teeth was very welcoming.  We all enjoyed our Indian rice, beans and chicken with naan bread.  When traveling we have learned the busier the local restaurant the better and safer. It means it has turnover. It means the food isn’t sitting there for days. In southeast asian countries you will see very clean, nice looking places that are tempting – but often dead. The not as clean, not as modern, yet busy place is the way to go! Our meals In Yangon were pretty inexpensive. They ranged anywhere from $4 USD per person to $8- 10 max including beer or wine. There is no tipping in Myanmar either.

After our Indian lunch we walked around a really cool market. Jessica wanted a painting and found one she just loved! She and Christopher negotiated prices back and forth with the seller for quite some time. They finally agreed on $27 US. This is a hand made painting that would be 10 times that price in the US. I happened to have USD to pay for it- a perfect birthday gift for Jessica! She was very happy with her new painting!

All through Yangon you see men with red teeth and red splatters on the ground. It is the remnants of betel nut- a very popular plant concoction they chew like gum. It gives an energized feeling, similar to a strong caffeine. However, like tobacco, chewing it often can have adverse health issues. Jessica and Christopher had tried it in other countries, so they agreed to try it again with Conner. I wasn’t sold on it and decided to just take pictures of them trying it.

Woman making betel nut

They chewed their street -made betel nut for a minutes before spitting it out. Conner described a rush feeling- similar to after drinking an energy drink. It was short lived though and seemed to wear off fairly fast.

we have no idea what some of the stuff for sale is …

We spent the latter part of the afternoon walking around Inya Lake. A fairly unattractive lake that Christopher called “radioactive” because of the flowing oil seen on the surface. We sat along the lake and were served beer by 14 year olds. We just talked and relaxed. The bathroom was a few minute walk away and some nice young local teenagers showed me the way. When I arrived I realized I had to pay to use it. Conner had all the kyat, I had no money. The nice boys paid for me and said , “dont worry “. They were so kind!

Jessica and I chatted with two men probably in their 30’s who were wealthier Yangon locals. I watched as one flicked his used cigarette in the lake. “Oh my! You just littered!’ I said. He smiled and said,”ooh oops! Bad habit!’. Um ok….

We had dinner at a seafood place along the lake, hoping and praying the fish wasn’t caught from the lake. It was a nice dinner , and perfect for Jessica’s birthday.

We all were exhausted so we went to bed fairly early.

The next morning Conner and I went to 2 popular buddhas/ pagodas, that they had seen the previous day while rode the circular train.  They were really neat- the reclining buddha was my favorite. They have a huge reclining buddha that we saw in Bangkok, but this one had its own character and charm.

Women buying flowers to give buddha

After the buddhas we had some time before we planned to meet Christopher and Jessica. That afternoon we were flying to Bagan via a small Myanmar airline- Golden Air. We had some time left before meeting them so we strolled the streets. We passed a nice looking spa that offered massages. We both were intrigued. With only 30-40 minutes we asked for two 30 minute foot/ leg massages. We were led into a beautiful spa where they washed our feet with bath salts and let us to recliners. The massages were amazing! My masseuse told me she was highly trained in reflexology and muscle energy. I believe her! She really knew when she was doing. With our eyes closed, enjoying every minute we soon realized some things were lost translation.Our 30 minute massages were closer to an hour.

Feeling incredible and relaxed we hurried back to our hotel. Jessica and Christopher were there ready to head to the airport. They had a rough morning trying to figure out how to ship the painting back home. Another “lost in translation” dilemma. $80 USD and 2 hours of running around and Christopher finally was able to get it shipped.

We took a taxi to Yangon airport, happy to leave our not so desirable hotel behind us. If you are planning travel to Yangon message me so I can tell you where NOT to stay! At Yangon airport we waited for our flight that was delayed only 15 minutes. We boarded the small propeller plane and set off for Bagan. Dragon air turned out to be quite nice. They offered us complimentary food drinks, tea, coffee, and it was only a 2 hour flight.

In no time at all we arrived at the small Bagan airport! We were caught off guard when two young girls bombarded us with a sign saying we need to pay an environmental fee of 25,000 kyat per person. Huh? Had I read about this on the travel blogs? I didn’t recall. At first we were annoyed but once it was explained to us that this fee would get us an access card for all the Bagan temples, we understood. The money would help the upkeep and maintenance of the temples. It made sense. They had an earthquake about 4 months ago which damaged some of the ancient temples, so they needed repairs.

We found a nice taxi driver who quickly got us to our hotel- Thurizza! Oh, such a nice breath of fresh air after Yangon and that last hotel. Driving though Bagan we could see how much more peaceful and calm it was compared to the crazy city of Yangon. Dirt roads and no high rise buildings- this looked nice! Temples and pagodas galore!

Thurizza was a lovely hotel with a rooftop restaurant and bar, surrounded by flowers and nice greenery. Our room was a good size and we were happy to have a nice hot shower! Bagan- I think we are going to like you—-

yahku a bhhoet nhuatsaat (goodbye for now in Burmese),

Kinz